FAVORITE ITEMS & RECOMMENDED SUPPLIES:
Thanks for stopping by! Here is some important information to help you prepare to bring your puppy home.
All of this information will also be printed and included in your puppy go home pack at the time of pick. But I like to provide it ahead of time so owners can prepare and get the supplies they need before puppy comes home
These are some of our favorite items that we us for our dogs and raising our puppies. If there is something that you are looking for here and can’t find it, please reach out as we are happy to provide feedback on other items as well.
Disclosure: I only recommend products I would use for my dogs and puppies and all opinions expressed here are our own. This post may contain affiliate links that at no additional cost to you, I may earn a small commission.
CRATES – Crates/Kennels – I typically recommend that new puppy owners look at a big crate. A Large sized crate (rough dimensions 42” x 28” x 31” or so) for full grown labs is sufficient. I would recommend purchasing something that comes with a divider so you can make the space they have an appropriate size as they grow. This also avoids having to buy multiple crates as the puppy rapidly grows.
This is a great option on Amazon: It comes in single or double door options, has a divider and also collapses for easy storage when not in use or traveling. https://amzn.to/3VKO0WG
Some families will set up an Exercise Pen – linked below, to mimic the setup that I have here to give the puppy a little more room to stretch and also have a potty area when they are at work if they will be gone for extended periods of time.
They will utilize a tray like this one below: and add in the pine pellets, linked below. Puppies will be accustomed to the smell of these pellets and associate where to go potty. I have some families that will also put these in the yard if they want the dog to use a specific of area of the yard (think little kids and not cleaning poop up out of the entire yard, just a section that the pup has been trained to go in).
Exercise Pen – FXW
Outdoor Friendly/Weather Resistant Option: https://amzn.to/3JovGLP
Indoor Option: https://amzn.to/49oEo7g
Pet Lodge 24” x 24” plastic drop tray – https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/pet-lodge-24-in-x-24-in-plastic-dropping-pan/0000000032654?bc=11232%7C11298%7C11301
Litter Pellets – https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/marth-bedding-pellets-40-lb/0000000019314
MISC FAVORITES:
Snuggle Puppy: https://amzn.to/4fnceO1 – these are great tools to help puppy feel comforted, they have a heart that beats to mimic snuggling with litter mates.
Brush – https://amzn.to/3WNbrOb – this is a nice brush for getting the loose hair off and to help with some of the seasonal shedding that labs have.
Shampoo – https://amzn.to/3WJveOm
Nail Clipper with length guard – https://amzn.to/3LMkny1 – these are what I use for my big dogs, it has a guard that can be used so you don’t cut too short?
Door Bell – https://amzn.to/3YqDEg4 – nice tool to help with potty training (technique in Tips & Tricks).
Washable Pee pads – https://amzn.to/4aFwUxO
Multi pack – https://amzn.to/3J22aLk
Neater Feeder – This is a great product for those messy drinkers and will help keep your floors just a little cleaner ;-). – https://amzn.to/4fK0eGr
Stainless Steel Bowls – I would recommend stainless steel bowls over plastic, ceramic, etc. They are easier to clean and much more sanitary. These are a great option with a rubber bottom to help keep the bowls in place. – https://amzn.to/3POrvwi
Stainless Steel Slow Feeder Bowls – This is a great slow feeder bowl option in stainless steel so it’s easy to clean and much more sanitary than plastic, ceramic, etc. –https://amzn.to/43HtGau
TREATS
My dogs all enjoy the flavor of these treats and are easy enough to break in half if they are too large while your puppy is growing. They smell delicious too!
Although the contain chicken meal in the ingredient list, I do feel it’s okay to feed chicken as long as it is in moderation. – https://amzn.to/43IQ4QP
TOYS & ENRICHMENT
Wobble Giggle Ball: https://amzn.to/3TM07QC
Snuffle Mat https://amzn.to/49l7hBc
BONES / CHEWS
Stuffed Shin Bones – single & multi pack options https://amzn.to/43OegkX
I will be sending home a dog bone like the one pictured and linked below. My dogs love the peanut butter flavor, and they are wonderful for even strong, aggressive chewers as you puppy gets older. They come in a small and large size and can be found at local pet stores, Fleet Farm, Menards, as well (brands will vary).
I have found that the beef flavor seems to be a little messier as it’s dyed red, and it stains the carpets and rugs in our home. Once your dog has gotten the filling out of these, they are a great thing to keep around and stuff with more peanut butter or yogurt and then freeze for a treat that will keep them busy and occupied for a while.
Another option is Antler Chews –
These last a long time! There are many options out there when it comes to antler chews, deer, elk and moose antlers along with several varieties of deer antlers.
BONES / CHEWS Continued…..
Damaging a tooth is a concern for dog owners with giving antlers, and split chews can be a safer option. A split chew allows easy access to the mineral rich marrow that dogs love. Once the chew has lost its marrow core, it’s time to remove it from your dog and replace it.
https://amzn.to/49ppRId – WhiteTail Naturals – 6 pack
https://amzn.to/3PL9PBP – Split Chews – 2 pack
Benebones: https://amzn.to/3J521H4
Lumabone: https://amzn.to/3J4rFvK
King Chews https://amzn.to/43Jm5Za
Similar to Kong’s, these are durable, nontoxic and made with 100% rubber. They are easy to use with treats or fill with your doggie’s favorite things like peanut butter, yogurt, pumpkin and freeze for a long-lasting treat to keep your pup or dog busy and engaged.
TIPS & TRICKS
House training / Potty Training:
Consistency is key, using the same word, the same door, praise praise praise and treat treat treats!! Make sure everyone in the home uses the same keyword (go potty, go outside, do your business, etc). We’ve been using “go outside and go potty” so that both keywords are used and easier to transition for your pup.
- Rule of Thumb: Take your puppy out every time they:
- Are done eating
- Drank a substantial amount of water
- After waking
- During and after playing
During the first few weeks (ages 8-12 weeks or so) your puppy will need to go outside every 2-3 hours. As the puppy grows there will be a progression to longer durations as he/she can start to control their bladder and hold it longer.
Warning – If your puppy needs to go to the bathroom, IT WILL go in the kennel/crate.
This is my recommendation, if your schedule does not allow for your puppy to be let out of it’s kennel every few hours.
Purchase an exercise pen for when you are gone. In the pen I would recommend putting the puppy’s crate/kennel with a blanket or towel (easily washable) and a small tray with the litter pellets that we used at the breeder’s home; as they associate the smell of the pellets with where they are supposed to eliminate. This will allow the puppy to KNOW where he/she is expected to go potty during the day.
*Items/supplies to achieve this are noted on 1st page of this document
NOTE: When you are home, make sure that you are consistently letting the puppy outside and restrict access to the pellet tray so that you can still progressively house train the puppy.
- If your puppy struggles you can try hanging a bell on the door you would like the puppy to use (try to use the same door if at all possible). When it’s time for them to go out, use the same keyword and take the puppy’s paw and physically ring the bell with their paw, do this every time and in a short amount of the time the puppy will go to that door and ring the bell when he/she needs to go outside.
Puppy Teething:
Don’t be alarmed if you do not find the teeth your puppy loses, they often swallow them or your vacuum may find them. Don’t be alarmed, this is normal and shouldn’t be a reason to worry.
- Feed ice cubes
- Soak a knotted rope in water and put in a ziplock bag in freezer = cheap puppy teething toy
- King Chew or Kong Ball filled with peanut butter, yogurt or canned pumpkin & freeze, this will keep them busy for hours. Refreeze when the peanut butter gets soft/as needed (make sure the peanut butter does not contain xylitol, it’s deadly to dogs)
- Freeze treats in water in ice cubes
Upset stomach/diarrhea:
Your puppies’ stool should normally have the consistency of a solid formed stool. The stress of rehoming can often create anxiety and the first signs of this is sometimes seen in the consistency of their stools. If your puppies stool transitions to a soft pile with the consistency of pudding or a cow-pie, don’t be alarmed, that is normal from the stress, and it should resolve itself in a few days. If it does not, you can try one of these tactics below to help improve the consistency.
These tools are useful for puppies all the way into adult hood, senior dogs, etc.
#1 Pure Canned Pumpkin- add a Tablespoon or 2 to their feedings, it will help to firm up their stools.
#2 Yogurt – the probiotics can help balance out their stomach. It can be used in combination with canned pumpkin as well.
#3 Rice & Boiled Chicken/Ground Beef – This is my go-to secret weapon. Once you see improvement in the form of the stools and the diarrhea has not returned for a few days, then gradually add their kibble back in over another few days. You can add beef or chicken broth to the rice and meat mixture for more flavor. White or brown rice can be used.
Crating/Kenneling: This is a great tool to use with your puppy. There may be a transition period for your puppy to learn that it is a safe place for he/she to be in. It will assist with house training your puppy, keeps your puppy safe when it cannot be supervised for chewing etc.
Positive Reinforcement is helpful with crate/kennel training. Feed the puppy in the crate, give them treats, bones, etc inside it. They will associate being in the crate with good things instead of it being a punishment.
I would recommend using towels or blankets in the bottom of the crate until you know that you can trust your puppy/dog to not chew up that brand new expensive dog bed.
Towels and blankets are a lot easier to toss into the wash machine as well if there are accidents during training.
If your puppy is not happy in the crate at night, a helpful tip is to place the crate next to your bed at night, then you can put your hand down close to the kennel so that the puppy can smell or lick your hand if they get upset and are crying. As hard as it is, letting them cry it out is often the best approach, they typically learn fast that it’s not the end of the world to be in the kennel. Make sure that if you do let them out due to crying, etc., that you let them out when they are calm and not crying or barking. If you don’t, they will think that it’s okay for them to carry on and then you will let them out which can then continue the viscous cycle.
Covering the crate can also help them feel like they are in a more secure/secluded space and make it feel more like a den. This is a trick you can try if you just can’t get the puppy to settle into the crate after trying the above recommendations.
I recommend removing any collars on your puppy when crate / kennel training to avoid any possibility of strangulation if the collar were to get caught.
I also urge families to avoid using retractable leashes, they can cause serious or fatal damage to a dog’s vertebrae if they are given the entire line to run and then it snaps them back when they reach the end of the slack in the leash.
If someone has a remote/work from home job, my recommendation is to still give puppy some alone time in the crate so they are not always reliant on being with someone 24/7. It can create unnecessary separation anxiety when it comes to someone going back to work outside of the home, or if the puppy needs to be alone while someone is out running errands, etc. A slow progression to a few hours is my recommendation. Start out at 5-10 minutes of quiet time, once you are successful with that then slowly move up the amount of time until you have reached a few hours. A lot of families dealt with these issues after of COVID ; the animals were used to someone always being home and then when they went back to work the animals didn’t know what to do or think.
Toxic Foods & Plants:
Foods:
- Alcoholic beverages
- Apple seeds
- Apricot pits
- Avocados
- Cherry pits
- Candy (particularly chocolate—which is toxic to dogs, cats, and ferrets—and any candy containing the toxic sweetener Xylitol)
- Chives
- Coffee (grounds, beans, and chocolate-covered espresso beans)
- Garlic
- Grapes
- Gum (can cause blockages and sugar-free gums may contain the toxic sweetener Xylitol)
- Hops (used in home beer brewing)
- Macadamia nuts
- Moldy foods
- Mushroom plants
- Mustard seeds
- Onions, onion powder and onion flakes
- Peach pits
- Potato leaves and stems (green parts)
- Raisins
- Rhubarb leaves
- Salt
- Tea (because it contains caffeine)
- Tomato leaves and stems (green parts)
- Walnuts
- Xylitol (artificial sweetener that is toxic to pets)
- Yeast dough
Xylitol is a sugar substitute that is DEADLY to dogs. It is also being labeled as BIRCH SUGAR. Be sure to check ingredients on things like Peanut Butter. Sugar Free gums may have it, also things like Benadryl gel caps also contain this.
Plants:
Here is a list of the 15 most common house plants that are toxic to dogs. The complete list is very extensive. Please reference this link for a complete list:
https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control/dogs-plant-list
- Aloe Vera
- Ivy
- Jade
- Dumb Cane
- Philodendron
- Pathos
- Sago Palm
- ZZ Plant
- Elephant Ear
- Corn Plant
- Asparagus Plant
- Desert Rose
- Bird of Paradise
- Peace Lily
- Chinese Evergreen
If you suspect your pet has ingested a toxic substance, contact your local veterinarian immediately or call the ASPCA’s 24-hour emergency poison hotline at 1-888-426-4435.
Chewing:
Bones/Raw Hides – I recommend steering clear of raw hide bones, they are known for causing many digestive issues, even death in dogs. I recommend shin bones or bones marketed for dogs from cattle or pigs like knuckles, center bones, etc. Another good option is Antlers. All of these can be purchased at places like Fleet Farm, PetSmart, Chewy.com, etc.
Nyla bones are safe as well.
Socializing Your Puppy:
Avoid public places like dog parks, pet stores, parks, etc. until your puppy is completely vaccinated for distemper and parvo along with having their rabies vaccination as they can easily pick things up from those places and you just never know if people have properly vaccinated their pets.
VACCINATION/MEDICATION TIMELINE
Initial Shots:
Distemper/Parvo Combination Vaccination- recommended to be spaced out approximately
3-4 weeks apart.
- 1st shot completed @ 6 weeks old (completed while in LLL’s care)
- 2nd shot is due 3-4 weeks after 1st dose (roughly at 9-12 weeks old)
- 3rd shot is due at 12-14 weeks old (this timeline will depend on when 2nd shot is administered
Dewormer:
Your puppy will be treated with vet prescribed dewormer at 2, 4, 6 & 8 weeks of age while in our care. We use products to treat and prevent roundworms, hookworms, whipworms and tapeworms (as necessary).
Treated with Pyrantel Pamoate (Dosing = 1ml/10lbs)
Rabies – given initially at 4 months old (16 weeks) – this first one is a 1 year shot. Typically, after the first shot you will go back for boosters every 3 years.
Other Vaccinations: Please check with your veterinarian on these vaccinations
- Lyme’s Disease Vaccination
- Leptospirosis
- Bordetella (Kennel Cough)
Vaccinations that will need to be Boostered Yearly
- Distemper/Parvo Combination Vaccination Booster
- Lyme’s Disease Vaccination Booster (if directed by vet)
- Leptospirosis (if directed by vet)
- Bordetella (Kennel Cough) – given if the pup/dog is in social environments like puppy training classes, dog parks, kennels, etc. – some vets may recommend it be needed every 6 months – 1 year
Monthly Prevention: Most vets are now recommending year-round prevention of both of these items to help protect your pets during mild winters.
- Heartworm & General Parasite Prevention: Some of the common brands are Interceptor Plus / Heartgard Plus – Protects against Heartworm & Internal Parasites like hookworm, roundworm, whipworm & tapeworms. Can be started at 8 weeks of age. Prescription is needed from your veterinarian.
- Flea & Tick Prevention – There are many options out on the market to prevent and protect against fleas & ticks.
- Chewable Tablets – Brands like Credelio / Nexgard / Bravecto. Prescription is needed from your veterinarian.
- Topical Application – Brands like Frontline, Bravecto, K9 Advantix
- Collars – Brands like Seresto, FurLife, Wondercide – some of these options last 6+ months (Many Vets suggest avoiding these, as they are not effective if not used properly).
Frontline Plus 5-22lbs https://amzn.to/3VEVvhX Frontline Plus: 23-44lbs https://amzn.to/3J1wvtJ
Frontline Plus 45-88lbs https://amzn.to/3QakWED Frontline Plus 89-132lbs https://amzn.to/49m0Cqc
Seresto Collar – 18lbs + https://amzn.to/4aEKNvX Wondercide Collar –https://amzn.to/3U5w1Ju
I would recommend avoid using the 3 in 1 medication for Heartworm, Flea & Tick Prevention called Simparica Trio. There is a lot of information to support that it has been linked to neurological issues in dogs.
FOOD:
I will be feeding Diamond Naturals – Large Breed Puppy Lamb & Rice. Picture and Link below:
It’s recommended by most vets to feed a large breed puppy formula until the age of 1 years old. Large breed formula has more appropriate calcium to phosphorus guidelines for growing large puppies and is regulated more closely in the pet food industry than general puppy or adult food.
I would recommend keeping your new puppy on this for a few months minimum until he/she’s made the adjustment to the new environment, all shot series have been completed as those things that can be stressful to them and their bodies so making a food change at the same time could create more unnecessary stress for everyone. If you’re going to change to something different after that, just make sure it’s a gradual change over a few weeks as to not shock or upset their stomach. But please do your research and feed a large breed puppy food.
It is recommended that they stay on puppy food for at least the 1st year of life, some food manufacturers even recommend up to age 2, so if you have questions on this check with your veterinarian for their recommendations tailored to your pet.
The reason that I like to start puppies on the Lamb & Rice formula over something standard like chicken based is that Labs are susceptible to general allergies and chicken is so widely overused in the industry that I feel starting them on something aside from chicken gives them a better chance of avoiding some of those major allergy issues off the bat. If you make a switch to a different food down the road and need to find an alternate protein options, my recommendations would be salmon or turkey.
Many places like Amazon, Chewy, PetSmart, etc. will allow you to set up an auto ship for the food to be delivered at the frequency of your choice with ease of making changes to those dates if necessary. Typically, there will be an additional savings on top of the regular price if you enroll and place orders with an auto ship feature.
https://www.chewy.com/diamond-naturals-large-breed-puppy/dp/34917
FEEDING SCHEDULE:
There are two basic forms of feeding that are most commonly used in puppy feeding; free feeding and scheduled feeding. The decision on this will depend on your lifestyle.
Free feeding is when the owners leave dry food out for the pup all day long so the puppy can eat whenever it pleases. During the early stage of house breaking this feeding schedule can cause problems when trying to house train your puppy. It will be more difficult for you to control when the puppy eliminates. This may seem like a thoughtful idea but really you are not putting any discipline on the pup and its eating habits.
Schedule feeding involves placing a food bowl out for the pup and then taking it away after a period of time, which is usually a 30-minute span.
For the puppy stage, I would recommend scheduled feedings. This is an easy way to allow your Lab smaller, more frequent meals, which will in return help you to control how frequently the puppy will need to go outside for bathroom use and also helps to control proper weight gain. This is the feeding that I prefer to use for my grown labs and the one that I have started your puppy on during the early stages of training.
Your puppy has been on a consistent feeding schedule since being weaned from its momma.
Your puppy will be accustomed to scheduled feedings twice a day to help with your daily schedules.
Schedule is roughly:
Breakfast – 7:30-8:30 am
Dinner – 5:30-6:30 pm
The amount that your puppy is being fed will be discussed at pick up so that you can make sure you are staying consistent with the amount and schedule we have been using.
As your puppy grows, you will want to increase the amount you feed gradually, by roughly a ¼ cup total for the total daily feeding. It is very important that you measure your puppy’s food while it is growing to ensure that you are giving the proper amount of food. Refer to the guidelines on the back of the food packaging if you have any questions about the amount to feed or ask your vet. A healthy fit dog will likely have less health issues than its heavier unfit counterpart.
If your puppy eats extremely fast; I would recommend using a slow feed bowl to assist in how quickly the puppy is eating. If you don’t have a slow feed bowl you can add clean rocks to the bottom on a regular bowl so they have something to eat around, rocks big enough they can’t pick up or try to eat. Additionally, if you want or are able you can add in a 3rd meal at lunch time to help bridge the gap on the hunger, sometimes this will slow them down, however I haven’t done this as it is extremely hard for families that have adults in the home working outside of the home.
